July 1, 2013
For a book that’s both inspired by a shmancy restaurant and features only vegan recipes, this volume is surprisingly unpretentious. It’s warm and approachable, and filled with tempting recipes that push boundaries just enough. Landau and Jacoby are the chef-owners of Vedge, in Philadelphia, which they call a “vegetable restaurant”—and as they remind readers, “we are chefs, not activists.” They are chefs who really love their local, seasonal veggies. They showcase produce in this collection of intriguing small and large plates, soups and stews, and recipes from their “dirt list” (a daily list of dishes at the restaurant featuring what’s just come off the plant or out of the ground). The recipes are thoughtful and satisfying, from bites such as green olives with preserved lemon and fennel, and heirloom tomatoes with grilled shiitake and green goddess, to heartier fare like Peruvian squash and giant lima bean stew (made rich with peanut butter); roasted kabocha squash with black trumpet mushrooms and madeira; porcini and celery root shepherd’s pie with truffle; and portobello frites. To finish, for anyone who doubts the decadence possible when following a fresh plant-based diet, there are playful desserts—blueberries with pie crust and lemonade ice cream; chocolate stuffed beignets; and cranberry jelly doughnuts—and a handful of serious cocktails (absinthe, anyone?), too.